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@ -107,24 +107,24 @@ description: >-
# Munich, Germany # Munich, Germany
I arrived in Munich late at night on January 14th. My friend Caitlin met me at I arrived in Munich late at night on January 14th. My friend Caitlin met me at
the train station near her house and we walked over to it to drop my stuff off. the train station, and walked me over to her house to drop my stuff off. Jetlag
Jetlag hit me real good at this point, so I only barely remember her taking me hit me real good at this point, so I only barely remember her taking me to a
to a nearby biergarten to get some food and catch up. The next day we headed nearby biergarten to get some food and catch up. The next day we headed down to
down to the center of the city, and she showed me around the sights, like the center of the city, and she showed me around the sights, like Marienplatz
Marienplatz and the Frauenkirche (one of many famous churches in Munich). and the Frauenkirche (one of many famous churches in Munich).
{% include image.html {% include image.html
dir="mr-worldwide" file="munich-victory-gate-2018.jpg" width=4048 dir="mr-worldwide" file="munich-victory-gate-2018.jpg" width=4048
descr="Siegestor (Victory Gate), Munich, 2018" descr="Siegestor (Victory Gate), Munich, 2018"
%} %}
As we walked and ate our way through the day Caitlin told me all of the things As we walked and ate our way through the day Caitlin updated me on all of the
that are different in Europe, like how water is never free anywhere, nor are things that I should expect to be different in Europe, like how water is never
public restrooms; like how many buildings which are still used and lived in are free anywhere, nor are public restrooms; like how many buildings which are still
older than our entire country; like how people use cash instead of card, and get used and lived in are older than our entire country; like how people use cash
irritated if you make them break a large bill, or they just might not do it at instead of card, and get irritated if you make them break a large bill, or they
all; like how even in a large city like Munich everything can still be closed on just might not do it at all; like how even in a large city like Munich
a Sunday. everything can still be closed on a Sunday.
{% include image.html {% include image.html
dir="mr-worldwide" file="munich-moosach-2018.jpg" width=3036 dir="mr-worldwide" file="munich-moosach-2018.jpg" width=3036
@ -141,19 +141,21 @@ and people walked home from the train station after work without hurry. It was
like the priorities of the whole culture were different in some fundamental way like the priorities of the whole culture were different in some fundamental way
that I could never quite put a finger on. that I could never quite put a finger on.
Caitlin worked during the week and so I was set free into the City for a few Caitlin worked during the week, and so I was set free into the City for a few
days. I visited more churches, ate more food, hung out at the library figuring days. I visited more churches, ate more food, hung out at the library figuring
out the next steps of my travels, and just generally wandered around the city. out the next steps of my travels, and just generally wandered around the city.
One snowy day I had lunch with a distant relative on my mom's side, who is an One snowy day I had lunch with a distant relative on my mom's side, who is an
artist in Munich. I met her at her studio, and from there we wandered around artist in Munich. I met her at her studio, and from there we wandered around
various museums where she gave me essentially a private guided tour of the various museums, where she gave me a private guided tour of the exhibits. We
exhibits. We talked about politics, with Trump being the main topic of course. talked about politics, and about how immigration is affecting it, and about
We talked about art, and school, and our different cultures. She told me that Trump (of course), and about art, and school, and our different cultures. She
Europe had always looked to the US as a kind of older brother, but now that told me that Europe had always looked to the U.S. as a kind of older brother,
image was starting to fall apart, and I told her about the tiny house and but now that image was starting to fall apart, and I told her about the tiny
minimalism movement that is hopefully picking up steam in the US. (TODO finish house and minimalism movement that is hopefully picking up steam in the U.S.,
this paragraph). and about my friend who is living in a van and traveling around the country. I
learned a lot that day, and when I headed back to Caitlin's afterwards I felt
much more at home in the country and continent than I had before.
A week after arriving it was time for me to continue on. One cold morning I A week after arriving it was time for me to continue on. One cold morning I
hopped onto a bus, rode through a snowy Switzerland, and hopped off into a hopped onto a bus, rode through a snowy Switzerland, and hopped off into a
@ -177,29 +179,29 @@ lavish and disparate.
My hostel in Milan was called the Ostello Bello, and was probably the best one I My hostel in Milan was called the Ostello Bello, and was probably the best one I
could have gotten as my first hostel in Europe. The hostel's downstairs area was could have gotten as my first hostel in Europe. The hostel's downstairs area was
a restaurant/bar, with tables reserved for hostel guests. Upon arriving they a restaurant/bar, with some tables reserved for hostel guests. Upon arriving
immediately sat me down at one of those tables, where others were sitting, and they immediately sat me down at one of those tables, where others were sitting,
said "this is Brian, talk to him". They did this with every person who arrived, and said "this is Brian, talk to him". They did this with every person who
as well as giving us free food and drinks, so that every night turned into a arrived, as well as giving us free food and drinks, so that every night turned
small party. into a small party.
It took a while for me to fully break out of my shell and get used to meeting It took a while for me to fully break out of my shell and get used to meeting
people in hostels, but if it weren't for Ostello Bello it might not have people in hostels, but if it weren't for Ostello Bello it might not have
happened at all. Every night I got to hand out and make friends with people from happened at all. Every night I got to hang out and make friends with people from
South Korea, Scotland, Argentina, France, Switzerland, and locals from Milan South Korea, Scotland, Argentina, France, Switzerland, and locals from Milan
too. So despite all the negative things I'm going to have to say about party too. So despite all the negative things I'm going to have to say about party
hostels later, I'm grateful for Ostello Bello. hostels later, I'm grateful for Ostello Bello.
As far as Milan itself, the only thing which really impacted me was the Duomo. As far as Milan itself, the thing which impacted me the most was the Duomo. And
And boy did it impact me, so much so that I visited it twice. It's the third boy did it impact me, so much so that I visited it twice. It's the third largest
largest church in the world, but my experience of it was even better than when I church in the world, but my experience of it was even better than when I would
went to St. Peter's, the first largest. The interior is so cavernous that all go to St. Peter's, the first largest, later on. The interior is so cavernous
sounds echo virtually forever, creating a low hum which reminded me of the Hindu that all sounds echo virtually forever, creating a low hum which reminded me of
Om. To think that the words of a book carried such force that, 2000 years later, the Hindu Om. To think that the words of a book carried such force that, 2000
people were erecting and maintaining incredible structures like the Milan's years later, people were erecting and maintaining incredible structures like the
Duomo in their honor floored me. There's a lot of criticism which could and Milan's Duomo in their honor floored me. There's a lot of criticism which could
should be leveled towards the Catholic Church, but damnit they know how to build and should be leveled towards the Catholic Church, but damnit they know how to
a building. build a building.
{% include image.html {% include image.html
dir="mr-worldwide" file="milan-duomo-2018-0.jpg" width=1292 dir="mr-worldwide" file="milan-duomo-2018-0.jpg" width=1292
@ -219,31 +221,31 @@ a building.
Besides the Duomo I also visited some museums and other sights, like the Sforza Besides the Duomo I also visited some museums and other sights, like the Sforza
Castle, walking from one to the other as the days went on. Walking became a Castle, walking from one to the other as the days went on. Walking became a
frequent past-time for me during my traveling. Between Google Maps and an frequent past-time for me during my traveling. Between Google Maps and the
external batter pack I always had with me there was never a worry about getting external battery pack I always had with me, there was never a worry about
lost, and with hostels generally being clustered near the sights it was rarely getting lost, and with hostels generally being clustered near the sights it was
more than a half-hour walk to any given thing I wanted to see. So I got used to rarely more than a half-hour walk to any given thing I wanted to see. So I got
walking a lot, and taking public transit infrequently, and never once used a used to walking a lot, and taking public transit infrequently, and never once
taxi or rental car while in Europe. used a taxi or rental car while in Europe.
Five days after arriving in Milan I left it, having made many friends and Five days after arriving in Milan I left it, having made many friends and
having learned a lot about Italy and Italians. I also learned I was spending too having learned a lot about Italy and Italians. I also learned I was spending too
long at each city: It was almost 2 weeks into my 3 month-max trip (for visa long at each city: It was almost 2 weeks into my 3 month-max trip (for visa
reasons), and I'd only been to two! From then on I kept to two or three days per reasons), and I'd only been to two cities! From then on I kept to two or three
city, depending on how much I cared about it, with a couple of five day-ers when days per city, depending on how much I cared about it, with a couple of five
I really needed a rest. day-ers when I really needed a rest.
## Ravenna, Italy ## Ravenna, Italy
After the hecticness of Milan I needed something more quiet. Before leaving the After the hecticness of Milan I needed something more quiet. Before leaving the
US a friend had told me about Ravenna, the once capital of the Western Roman U.S. a friend had told me about Ravenna, the once capital of the Western Roman
Empire and now small Italian city, where some of the world's oldest Christian Empire and now small Italian city, where some of the world's oldest Christian
structures still reside. Mosaics retain their original quality over time far structures still reside. Mosaics retain their original quality over time far
better than many other mediums, and Ravenna was full of ones from as early as better than many other mediums, and Ravenna was full of ones from as early as
the 6th century. While not as glamorous and fast-paced as Milan, Ravenna really the 6th century. While not as glamorous and fast-paced as Milan, Ravenna really
hit me with the depth of its history. As someone from the US I'm not accustomed hit me with the depth of its history. As someone from the U.S., I'm not
to seeing anything built before 1500, and yet here were buildings in excellent accustomed to seeing anything built before 1500, and yet here were buildings in
condition which were built a thousand years prior. excellent condition which were built a thousand years prior.
{% include image.html {% include image.html
dir="mr-worldwide" file="ravenna-mosaic-2018-0.jpg" width=4048 dir="mr-worldwide" file="ravenna-mosaic-2018-0.jpg" width=4048
@ -256,34 +258,33 @@ condition which were built a thousand years prior.
float="right" float="right"
%} %}
Another thing which took some time to get accustomed to was using cash. By this Something else which took some time to get accustomed to was using cash (what a
point in the trip it had become somewhat second-nature, but only by way of many segway!). By this point in the trip it had become somewhat second-nature, but
mishaps previously. In the US using cash is usually a backup option, with only by way of many mishaps previously. In the U.S. using cash is usually a
credit/debit cards ruling supreme. ATMs never give out bills bigger than $20, backup option, with credit/debit cards ruling supreme. ATMs never give out bills
and no establishment would ever complain about having to break a $20 except for bigger than $20, and no establishment would ever complain about having to break
maybe the smallest purchases. In Europe the ATMs (or cash machines, whatever) a $20 except for maybe the smallest purchases. In Europe the ATMs (or cash
almost always give out €50 bills, which absolutely no one wants to break except machines, whatever) almost always give out €50 bills, which absolutely no one
big chain stores. I still remember the exact location of an ATM in Munich which wants to break except big chain stores. It's a giant pain. I still remember the
gave me €10 bills, it was that exciting of a find, and I went out of my way to exact location of an ATM in Munich which gave me €10 bills, it was that exciting
go back to it more than once. of a find, and I went out of my way to go back to it more than once.
So in addition to needing to keep an eye on your cash and get more out So in addition to needing to keep an eye on your cash and get more out
periodically, you also need to keep an eye out for places which will break your periodically, you also need to keep an eye out for places which will break your
bills and plan accordingly. Before leaving the US I had gotten a debit card with bills, and plan accordingly. Before leaving the U.S. I had gotten a debit card
free international ATM withdrawls at any ATM, so finding places to get cash out with free international ATM withdrawls at any ATM, so finding places to get cash
wasn't a problem, but breaking it always was. out wasn't a problem, but breaking it always was.
By the time I got back to the US, I missed doing everything in cash, and even But by the time I got back home, I missed doing everything in cash, and even
kept doing it for a while in spite of my culture. While having to find places to kept doing it for a while in spite of my culture. While having to find places to
break fifties was a pain, a little friction to making random purchases wasn't break fifties was a pain, a little friction to making random purchases wasn't
necessarily a bad thing. Instead of impulsively buying whatever was in front of necessarily a bad thing. Instead of impulsively buying whatever was in front of
me, I was incentivized to wait until a better opportunity arrose, generally by me, I was incentivized to wait until a better opportunity arrose, generally by
waiting until I could buy multiple things at the same time, which generally waiting until I could buy multiple things at the same time, which generally
meant buying more efficiently because I was actually putting thought into it. meant buying more efficiently because I was putting thought into it. Also, by
Also, by always paying in cash, I had a better sense of how much I was actually always paying in cash, I had a better sense of how much I was actually spending
spending day-to-day. In the US we abhor inconvenience, but in my opinion our day-to-day. In the U.S. we abhor inconvenience, but in my opinion our reluctance
reluctance to use cash is a good example of how that abhorance can be to our own to use cash is a good example of how that abhorance can be to our own detriment.
detriment.
## Florence, Italy ## Florence, Italy
@ -291,18 +292,18 @@ The train from Ravenna to Florence (or, as Italians spell it, _Firenze_) was
uneventful. Finding the best route between cities turned out to be pretty uneventful. Finding the best route between cities turned out to be pretty
straightforward. There's an app called GoEuro which helps compare different straightforward. There's an app called GoEuro which helps compare different
methods like bus, train, plane, and taxi/ride-sharing. There's another app methods like bus, train, plane, and taxi/ride-sharing. There's another app
called Rome2Trio which does roughly the same thing. There's a bus company called called Rome2Trio which does roughly the same thing. And there's a bus company
FlexBus which I used quite a bit; their prices are good, their buses are new, called FlexBus which I used quite a bit; their prices are good, their buses are
and the UI of their site was made in the last decade. new, and the UI of their site was made in the last decade.
Florence was by far my favorite city in Italy. On the one hand it was very Florence was by far my favorite city in Italy. On the one hand it was very
trourist-friendly, and on the other it still retained the feeling of being a trourist-friendly, and on the other it still retained the feeling of being a
historic city. I split my time there between visiting museums and churches and historic city. I split my time there between visiting museums and churches and
finding the best cheapest spots to eat. Before leaving the US a friend had told finding the best/cheapest spots to eat. Before leaving home, a friend had told
me to avoid any restaurant in Europe that has pictures on its menu; they're me to avoid any restaurants with pictures on their menu; they're targeted at
targeted at tourists and priced accordingly. My strategy for finding food tourists and priced accordingly. So my strategy for finding food involved
involved marking off hole-in-the-wall spots in my maps app whenever I came marking off hole-in-the-wall spots in my maps app whenever I came across them
across them during the day. during the day, and returning later when I was hungry
{% include image.html {% include image.html
dir="mr-worldwide" file="florence-2018-0.jpg" width=4048 dir="mr-worldwide" file="florence-2018-0.jpg" width=4048
@ -361,7 +362,7 @@ through Spain.
## Rome, Italy ## Rome, Italy
Rome surprised me when I got there, though to be honest it's not clear what my Rome surprised me when I got there, though, to be honest, it's not clear what my
expectations actually were. The city center, aka the tourist center, is expectations actually were. The city center, aka the tourist center, is
absolutely _massive_, and all of it is completely tourist-centric. Living in absolutely _massive_, and all of it is completely tourist-centric. Living in
Rome must feel like living inside of Disney World. The city no longer exists for Rome must feel like living inside of Disney World. The city no longer exists for
@ -372,14 +373,13 @@ tour agencies, bike rentals, "experience" vendors (helicopter rides over the
Colosseum! Oh my!), shitty jewelry stores, and so much more, all aimed at Colosseum! Oh my!), shitty jewelry stores, and so much more, all aimed at
someone who has too much money and not enough time to spend it all. someone who has too much money and not enough time to spend it all.
My hostel was one of the cheapest I could find, but since I was only staying My hostel was one of the cheapest I could find, but I was only staying two full
two full days I figured it'd be fine. Seeing all the sights of Rome in only two days so it was fine. Seeing all of the sights of Rome in only two days is not
days is not recommended, but I did the best I could. The first day I went recommended. The first day I went straight to the Vatican, getting there as
straight to the Vatican, getting there as early as possible to try early as possible to try (unsuccessfully) to beat the line. St. Peters is the
(unsuccessfully) to beat the line. St. Peters is the largest church in the largest church in the world, but being rushed I wasn't able to enjoy it like
world, but being rushed I wasn't able to enjoy it like Milan's Duomo, and a lot Milan's Duomo, and a lot of it was closed off unless you wanted to pay more. I
of it was closed off unless you wanted to pay more. I wasn't able to spend wasn't able to spend enough time in it to enjoy it.
enough time in it to enjoy it.
{% include image.html {% include image.html
dir="mr-worldwide" file="rome-2018-3.jpg" width=4048 dir="mr-worldwide" file="rome-2018-3.jpg" width=4048
@ -387,14 +387,13 @@ enough time in it to enjoy it.
%} %}
The Vatican museum was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. For starters The Vatican museum was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. For starters
it's huge, with tons and tons of things to see, including, obviously, the it's huge, with tons and tons of things to see, including the Sistene Chapel. I
Sistene Chapel. I took my time wandering around. After the museum I left the took my time wandering around. After the museum I left the Vatican and wandered
Vatican and wandered over to some other sights, like the Castel Sant'Angelo and over to some other sights, like the Castel Sant'Angelo and the Pantheon. As the
the Pantheon. As the day wore on, and more and more tourists started pouring day wore on, and more and more tourists started pouring out, everything became
out, everything became impossibly crowded. It was difficult to really enjoy impossibly crowded. It was difficult to really enjoy anything, what with
anything, what with everyone taking their phones out to capture anything and everyone taking their phones out to capture anything and everything the
everything the guidebook said to, without really taking the time to take in the guidebook said to, without really taking the time to take in the thing itself.
thing itself.
{% include image.html {% include image.html
dir="mr-worldwide" file="rome-2018-2.jpg" width=4048 dir="mr-worldwide" file="rome-2018-2.jpg" width=4048
@ -405,40 +404,40 @@ This was something I began to struggle with while I was in Rome. It wasn't
always clear to me _why_ these people cared about these sights, with myself always clear to me _why_ these people cared about these sights, with myself
being included. My pessimistic self would say that people just want the social being included. My pessimistic self would say that people just want the social
media points gained by a nice selfie in front of Trevi Fountain, and that the media points gained by a nice selfie in front of Trevi Fountain, and that the
tourism explosion which has started in the last decade is driven by narcissism. tourism explosion which has started in the last decade is driven by that
My charitable self might say that everyone understands that the journey matters narcissism. My more charitable self might say that everyone understands that the
more than the destination, and that seeing the sights isn't really the point, journey matters more than the destination, and that seeing the sights isn't
but rather prefer the adventure taken with friends and/or family, and so they really the point, but rather prefer the adventure taken with friends and/or
snap a quick picture and continue on with their good time. family, and so they snap a quick picture and continue on with their good time.
The reason people travel and visit tourist spots is really only their business, The reason people travel and visit tourist spots is really only their business,
and I can't be one to judge. It just seems unfortunate to take an entire city, and I can't be one to judge. It just seems unfortunate to take an entire city,
arguably the most important city in written history, and turn it into a theme arguably the most important city in written history, and turn it into a theme
park for the sake of people who don't actually care all too much about it. I park for the sake of people who don't actually care all too much about it. I
carried this realization with me for the rest of my trip, that tourism is a carried this realization with me for the rest of my trip, that tourism is a
deal-with-the-devil, taking the money of people who, ostensibly, find some place deal-with-the-devil; it takes the money of people who, ostensibly, find some
interesting, in exchange for driving away the original inhabitants of that place place interesting, in exchange for driving away the original inhabitants of that
who made it interesting in the first place. place who made it interesting in the first place.
Later on I would learn that the creep of tourism and the dreaded plague of Later on I would learn that the creep of tourism and the dreaded plague of
"gentrification" were spoken of as the same thing in popular destinations. The "gentrification" were spoken of as the same thing in popular destinations. The
problem of wealthy people driving out the inhabitants of a city in order to take problem of wealthy people driving out the inhabitants of a city in order to take
part in the city culture the original inhabitants created is a global one, and part in the city culture, which the original inhabitants created, is a global
one I'm certainly a part of. I moved to Denver because I liked the culture of one, and one I'm certainly a part of. I moved to Denver because I liked the
that city, and was fortunate enough to be able to afford to do so, but then left culture of that city, and was fortunate enough to be able to afford to do so,
only three years later, and was now doing the same in even shorter time periods but then left only three years later, and was now doing the same in even shorter
in cities the world over. time periods in cities the world over.
I obviously didn't stop being a tourist after Rome, but I made a conscious I obviously didn't stop being a tourist after Rome, but I made a conscious
attempt to be a better one. I put down the guidebook (or, in my case, the guide attempt to be a better one. I put down the guidebook (or, in my case, the guide
app) and tried to explore more naturally, taking in each sight as I found it, app) and tried to explore more naturally, taking in each sight as I found it,
and learning as much about it as I could. Rather than trying to see a little of and learning as much about it as I could. Rather than trying to see a little of
everything I find something which really called out to me and focus on that. everything, I would find something which really called out to me and focus on
It's a tough predicament to be in; it's important to go out and see the world, that. It's a tough predicament to be in; it's important to go out and see the
to meet people from all different cultures and see all the ways they live, but world, to meet people from all different cultures and see all the ways they
doing so is, often, detrimental to those cultures. It was tough to find a live, but doing so is, often, detrimental to those cultures. It was tough to
balance I was comfortable with, and I'm still not sure a "correct" balance find a balance I was comfortable with, and I'm still not sure a "correct"
actually exists. balance actually exists.
<div style="text-align: center;"> <div style="text-align: center;">
{% include image.html {% include image.html
@ -496,7 +495,7 @@ constructed using private funds and donations since then.
</div> </div>
The outside presents two faces, one a mishmash of sculpture which resembles The outside presents two faces, one a mishmash of sculpture which resembles
melting ice-cream and the other highly geometrical, both filled with biblical melting ice-cream, and the other highly geometrical, both filled with biblical
scenes and small details. Neither really prepares you for what the inside will scenes and small details. Neither really prepares you for what the inside will
be like. be like.
@ -524,32 +523,33 @@ I'd been in a lot of churches and cathedrals up till this point. Even when they
were as mind blowing as Milan's Duomo, they all followed a similar pattern: were as mind blowing as Milan's Duomo, they all followed a similar pattern:
gothic, brooding, ornate, almost dark in a way. gothic, brooding, ornate, almost dark in a way.
La Sagrada Familia is none of those things; it shirks the gothic style almost La Sagrada Familia is none of those things. It shirks the gothic style almost
completely, instead adopting one inspired by natural shapes and patterns. It completely, instead adopting one inspired by natural shapes and patterns. It
feels more like being under a canopy of trees than being in a building. There's feels more like being under a canopy of trees than being in a building. There's
light, and color, and organic shapes, like the tree-trunk-like columns and the light, and color, and organic shapes, like the tree-trunk-like columns and the
flower ceiling. And yet there's also a geometric patterness to everything, which flower ceiling. And yet there's also a geometric pattern-ness to everything,
hints at an order and intent for everything in sight, so your eye is drawn in which hints at an order and intent for everything in sight, so your eye is drawn
to investigate every detail without needing ornamentation to grab it. in to investigate every detail without needing ornamentation to grab it.
It's lucky that I hadn't made any other plans for that day, because I spent It's lucky that I hadn't made any other plans for that day, because I spent
nearly two hours at that church, walking around, taking it all in, sitting nearly two hours at that church, walking around, taking it all in, sitting
and contemplating, holding back tears a lot of the time, not being successful at and contemplating, holding back tears a lot of the time, not being successful at
it the rest. This might have been the first building I'd ever felt gratitude it the rest. This might have been the first building I'd ever felt gratitude
for. Where the traditional catholic building has as a foundation a call to for. Where the traditional catholic building has, as a foundation, a call to
authority, this one had a call to nature and humanity. And rather than being the authority, this one had a call to nature and humanity. And rather than being the
crackpot dream of a single person, it had been carried on and supported and crackpot dream of a single person, it had been carried on and supported and
built by many others long after he had died. It was a reflection of an ongoing built by many others long after he had died. It was a reflection of an ongoing
change in a society which I was grateful to see. change in a society which I was grateful to see.
I left Barcelona with a new understanding of churches, and what they represent, I left Barcelona with a new understanding of churches, and what they might
even for someone who's not catholic, and even for someone who's not christian. represent, even for someone who's not catholic. They're a space that's been set
They're a space that's been set aside with the fundamental purpose of sitting aside with the fundamental purpose of sitting quietly and thinking about things
quietly and thinking about things larger than oneself. Thinking about one's larger than oneself. Thinking about one's place in society, or in nature, or in
place in society, or in nature, or in the universe, and thinking about how that the universe, and thinking about how that affects one's actions. Every society
affects one's actions. Every society on earth has these spaces, though they go on earth has these spaces, though they go by different names, and have lots of
by different names, and have lots of different decorations. Each one carries a different decorations. Each one of these spaces carries a message about what
message about what that society has ascribed importance to. that society has ascribed importance to, and the message La Sagrada Familia
carried with it was refreshing.
## Madrid, Spain ## Madrid, Spain
@ -575,7 +575,8 @@ Mostly, we walked around and talked. We talked about colonialism, and oppression
and guilt, and about the Spanish Civil War and fascism, and about Catalan and and guilt, and about the Spanish Civil War and fascism, and about Catalan and
its desire for independence, about capitalism, and the pain it causes, and about its desire for independence, about capitalism, and the pain it causes, and about
tourism and gentrification, and about royalty and aristocracy, and about tourism and gentrification, and about royalty and aristocracy, and about
language and culture. language and culture. Like in Munich, I learned a lot, and felt a lot closer to
Spain than I had when I arrived.
I only spent one full day in Madrid, and afterwards took a bus, continuing I only spent one full day in Madrid, and afterwards took a bus, continuing
south, down to Córdoba. south, down to Córdoba.
@ -583,9 +584,9 @@ south, down to Córdoba.
## Córdoba, Spain ## Córdoba, Spain
It was on the bus to Córdoba that I remembered to actually book a place to stay It was on the bus to Córdoba that I remembered to actually book a place to stay
there. I quickly grabbed an AirBnB in town, though as it turned out messed it up there. I quickly grabbed an AirBnB in town, though, as it turned out, messed it
so that when it didn't go through. So there was an hour there, waiting at up and it didn't get reserved. So there was an hour there, waiting at the
the Córdoba bus station, where I was trully homeless. I spent it booking another Córdoba bus station, where I was trully homeless. I spent it booking another
AirBnB, properly this time, and eating some bread and cheese from my backpack, AirBnB, properly this time, and eating some bread and cheese from my backpack,
and watching some birds fight over a loaf someone else had dropped. and watching some birds fight over a loaf someone else had dropped.
@ -613,14 +614,15 @@ at got this, most didn't.
If someone feels comfortable in a hostel they'll open up on their own, and If someone feels comfortable in a hostel they'll open up on their own, and
naturally want to meet the people around them, go out partying, and have cool naturally want to meet the people around them, go out partying, and have cool
experiences. Or not. They'll do whatever the fuck they want to. But if a hostel experiences. Or not. They'll do whatever the fuck they want to. But if a hostel
is too focused on being cool and hip and showing off how good its vibes are it's is too focused on being cool and hip and showing off how good its vibes are,
neglecting the basics, and there is no partying and the vibes aren't good. it's neglecting the basics, and then there's no partying, and the vibes aren't
good.
So I was tired of party hostels, as I began calling them, having just been in So I was tired of party hostels, as I began calling them, having just been in
one in Barcelona a few days prior, and grabbed instead spent the night in what one in Barcelona a few days prior, and instead spent the night in what turned
turned out to be a brutally cold old building which had neither heat, sealed out to be a brutally cold old building which had neither heat, sealed windows,
windows, or cooking device with which to make a hot meal. So that's what I get or cooking device with which to make a hot meal. Which is what I get for being
for being a snob, I guess. a snob, I guess.
In the morning I visted the Mosque/Cathedral of Córdoba. This site has had the In the morning I visted the Mosque/Cathedral of Córdoba. This site has had the
odd history of having originally been a church, having then been converted to a odd history of having originally been a church, having then been converted to a
@ -633,7 +635,7 @@ neglected to take any pictures of.
## Granada, Spain ## Granada, Spain
This was probably one of the most interesting places I visited while traveling. This was probably one of the most interesting places I visited while traveling.
It was once one of the most important Moorish cities in Spain, then briefly Granada was once one of the most important Moorish cities in Spain, then briefly
became a Jewish state, and then the seat of the Nasrid dynasty (the last Muslim became a Jewish state, and then the seat of the Nasrid dynasty (the last Muslim
dynasty in Spain), and then eventually went back to being a part of the Catholic dynasty in Spain), and then eventually went back to being a part of the Catholic
empire. During this time it also had a large influx of Romani, and out of this empire. During this time it also had a large influx of Romani, and out of this
@ -653,21 +655,20 @@ homes. My hostel was in one of these caves.
%} %}
The hostel was small and quiet, overlooking both the Alhambra (the castle on a The hostel was small and quiet, overlooking both the Alhambra (the castle on a
hill, built by the Nasrids) and the rest of the city, and the guys running it hill, built by the Nasrids) and the rest of the city. The guys running it
were chill. One was Scottish, but he had come to Granada to live and study were chill; the owner was Dutch, and the other was Scottish. The Scott had come
flamenco, and it was obvious from how he spoke about it that he was completely to Granada to live and study flamenco, and it was obvious from how he spoke
in love with the art and the people. On one night they took me out to a "real about it that he was completely in love with the art and the people. On one
gypsy bar", as they called it. night they took me out to a "real gypsy bar", as they called it.
The flamenco artists in town, the singers and guitarists and dancers, make a The flamenco artists in town, the singers and guitarists and dancers, make a
living performing for tourists, but this bar is, according to my guides, where living performing for tourists, but this bar is, according to my guides, where
they would go after the shows to hang out. There was no music in the bar, they go after the shows to hang out. There was no music in the bar, but, as the
but, as the night went on, three or four cliques formed up naturally, each night went on, three or four cliques formed up naturally, each around a guitar
around a guitar player and singer, with dancers circling around, the rest player and singer, with dancers circling around, the rest clapping to an
clapping to an indecipherable rhythm. The Scott knew the names of a few of the indecipherable rhythm. The Scott knew the names of a few of the people playing,
people playing, and told me that it was at gatherings like this that the and told me that it was at gatherings like this that the musicians tried out new
musicians tried out new things and pushed the art further. It was the "real" things and pushed the art further. It was the "real" flamenco.
flamenco.
After that we got kebab and went back to the cave. After that we got kebab and went back to the cave.
@ -684,12 +685,13 @@ I went back to the peace and quiet of Sacromonte.
descr="Sacromonte and the valley below. Granada, 2018" descr="Sacromonte and the valley below. Granada, 2018"
%} %}
Being uphill, difficult to access by car, it was in many ways warded off from Being uphill and difficult to access by car, the Sacromonte was, in many ways,
the wave of tourism which has swept the world and sucked the heart out of many warded off from the wave of tourism which has swept the world and sucked the
cities. Only those willing to carry their bags 20 minutes uphill could disturb heart out of its cities. Only those willing to carry their bags 20 minutes
it. I found the absolute best spot possible, with benches overlooking the uphill could disturb it. I found the absolute best spot possible, with benches
Alhambra and the city and the sunset, sitting and drawing for hours, and was overlooking the Alhambra and the city and the sunset, sitting and drawing for
only disturbed by one or two couples sharing the view in all that time. hours, and was only disturbed by one or two couples sharing the view in all that
time.
I had originally planned to head back to Munich after Granada, but after talking I had originally planned to head back to Munich after Granada, but after talking
with a lot of people who told me I _had_ to go to Portugal, I booked a bus to with a lot of people who told me I _had_ to go to Portugal, I booked a bus to
@ -721,7 +723,7 @@ quiet and cozy.
%} %}
Another part of what made Lisbon stand out to me was the hostel I stayed in, and Another part of what made Lisbon stand out to me was the hostel I stayed in, and
the people I met there. The hostel was _cozy_. There was a small dining area the people I met there. The hostel was _homey_. There was a small dining area
with a single long table, a small living room with couches and chairs with a single long table, a small living room with couches and chairs
arranges in a circle, a decked out kitchen that anyone could use, and free arranges in a circle, a decked out kitchen that anyone could use, and free
sangria every evening. Rather than focus on partying and yolo and whatever, the sangria every evening. Rather than focus on partying and yolo and whatever, the
@ -732,10 +734,10 @@ amazing time.
While I was there, a museum had an exhibit devoted to M.C. Escher, the Dutch While I was there, a museum had an exhibit devoted to M.C. Escher, the Dutch
artist known for his tesselations, fractals, and generally paradoxical work. artist known for his tesselations, fractals, and generally paradoxical work.
Escher had always been an artist I was aware of, and then I read the book Escher had always been an artist I was aware of, and a year prior to this I had
_Gödel, Escher, Bach_ by Douglas Hofstadter and became even more interested. So read the book _Gödel, Escher, Bach_ by Douglas Hofstadter and become even more
I couldn't pass up the chance to see his work in person. And boy, did it leave interested. So I couldn't pass up the chance to see his work in person. And boy,
an impression on me. did it leave an impression on me.
Having traveled to Córdoba and Granada in his early twenties, Escher was Having traveled to Córdoba and Granada in his early twenties, Escher was
impressed by the Moorish architecture, specifically the tesselating tile impressed by the Moorish architecture, specifically the tesselating tile
@ -763,10 +765,16 @@ tesselations of my own, trying to find the tricks that Escher found which let
him make such complex images. I would find some, but certainly Escher still has him make such complex images. I would find some, but certainly Escher still has
the leg up on me. the leg up on me.
Having traveled most of Southern Europe at this point I flew back to homebase, Having traveled most of Southwest Europe at this point I flew back to homebase,
Munich, to recuperate and take figure out what my next steps would be. I left Munich, to recuperate and figure out what my next steps would be. I left Lisbon
Lisbon promising myself that I'd be back, even considering finding a way to live promising myself that I'd be back, even considering finding a way to live there
there one day. While my life plans have since changed, it's not something I've one day. While my life plans have since changed, it's not something I've totally
totally ruled out. ruled out.
[google-lisbon]: https://econews.pt/2018/01/29/from-google-to-amazon-technological-companies-are-moving-to-portugal-why/ [google-lisbon]: https://econews.pt/2018/01/29/from-google-to-amazon-technological-companies-are-moving-to-portugal-why/
## To be continued
In my next post of this series I'll tell the story of the second, and longest,
leg of my European tour, where I go to Belgium, the UK, Scandinavia, Prague, and
Berlin!