add lisbon to mr-worldwide post

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Brian Picciano 6 years ago
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      _drafts/mr-worldwide-pt-1-europe.md
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      img/mr-worldwide/lisbon-2018.jpg
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      img/mr-worldwide/lisbon-escher-2018-0.jpg
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      img/mr-worldwide/lisbon-escher-2018-1.jpg

@ -615,3 +615,79 @@ only disturbed by one or two couples sharing the view in all that time.
I had originally planned to head back to Munich after Granada, but after talking
with a lot of people who told me I _had_ to go to Portugal, I booked a bus to
Lisbon at the last minute and set off. And damn I'm glad I did.
## Lisbon, Portugal
Sometimes called the San Fransisco of Europe, Lisbon is a city with beaches,
historical buildings, perfect weather all-year round, earthquakes, and a large
orange-red suspension bridge across a bay. Unlike San Fransisco, it's an
affordable place to visit and the people who live there haven't been priced out
by tech companies ([yet][google-lisbon]).
Part of why I liked Lisbon so much is that, while tourism is an absolutely huge
industry, it didn't really feel that way. The Baixa district, where my hostel
was, was certainly an area just for tourists. But it wasn't very big, and once
outside of it you find yourself in somewhere like Alfama, which has been a
blue-collar district since the Moorish invasion, and retains its winding
cobblestone streets and narrow alleys. If you look at the skyline of Lisbon you
won't find any highrises or office buildings, just 4 to 5 story apartment
buildings and churches. It's a city meant for people to live, first and
foremost, with business being secondary. And so, despite being the biggest city
in the country, and 9th most visited city in Southern Europe, it still feels
quiet and cozy.
{% include image.html
src="mr-worldwide/lisbon-2018.jpg"
descr="The facade of a museum I was too poor to go in. Lisbon, 2018"
%}
Another part of what made Lisbon stand out to me was the hostel I stayed in, and
the people I met there. The hostel was _cozy_. There was a small dining area
with a single long table, a small living room with couches and chairs
arranges in a circle, a decked out kitchen that anyone could use, and free
sangria every evening. Rather than focus on partying and yolo and whatever, the
owners focused on making it a home, where people would cook and eat and talk and
hang out together. So that's what we did, every night, and in the mornings we'd
meet up one more time to eat unlimited free pancakes from the kitchen. It was an
amazing time.
While I was there, a museum had an exhibit devoted to M.C. Escher, the Dutch
artist known for his tesselations, fractals, and generally paradoxical work.
Escher had always been an artist I was aware of, and then I read the book
_Gödel, Escher, Bach_ by Douglas Hofstadter and became even more interested. So
I couldn't pass up the chance to see his work in person. And boy, did it leave
an impression on me.
Having traveled to Córdoba and Granada in his early twenties, Escher was
impressed by the Moorish architecture, specifically the tesselating tile
patterns they used in decoration. He began trying to replicate their work, and
ended up following what amounted to a mathematical investigation of geometry, in
the context of art. The museum presented his work in largely chronological
order, and, in seeing the progression of his ideas over decades, it really
struck me both what a genius he was and how dedicated he must have been to have
spun his wheels on the same problems for most of his life.
<div style="text-align: center;">
{% include image.html
src="mr-worldwide/lisbon-escher-2018-0.jpg"
inline=true
%}
{% include image.html
src="mr-worldwide/lisbon-escher-2018-1.jpg"
inline=true
%}
<p><em>Tesselations, paradoxes, and tricks of perspective, Lisbon, 2018</em></p>
</div>
For the rest of my trip, even through Asia, I would spend my time doodling
tesselations of my own, trying to find the tricks that Escher found which let
him make such complex images. I would find some, but certainly Escher still has
the leg up on me.
Having traveled most of Southern Europe at this point I flew back to homebase,
Munich, to recuperate and take figure out what my next steps would be. I left
Lisbon promising myself that I'd be back, even considering finding a way to live
there one day. While my life plans have since changed, it's not something I've
totally ruled out.
[google-lisbon]: https://econews.pt/2018/01/29/from-google-to-amazon-technological-companies-are-moving-to-portugal-why/

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