begin mr. worldwide series, as well as impliment some image templating
2
Makefile
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
||||
BUNDLE := bundle
|
||||
|
||||
serve:
|
||||
${BUNDLE} exec jekyll serve -w -I
|
||||
${BUNDLE} exec jekyll serve -w -I -D
|
||||
|
||||
update:
|
||||
${BUNDLE} update
|
||||
|
571
_drafts/mr-worldwide-pt-1-europe.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,571 @@
|
||||
---
|
||||
title: >-
|
||||
Mr. Worldwide, Pt. 1: Europe
|
||||
description: >-
|
||||
Or: How I stopped worrying and learned to love tomatoes.
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
## TODO
|
||||
|
||||
## Outline
|
||||
|
||||
- Denver
|
||||
- What I had
|
||||
- Why I left
|
||||
- Loadout
|
||||
- Road Trip
|
||||
- Ibrahim notebook
|
||||
- Choosing destinations
|
||||
- The First Leg
|
||||
- Munich
|
||||
- Silence
|
||||
- Relative
|
||||
- Italy
|
||||
- Milan
|
||||
- Ostello Bello, friends
|
||||
- Duomo
|
||||
- Walking/Getting around (Google maps)
|
||||
- Ravenna
|
||||
- Currency
|
||||
- Old monastaries, mosaics
|
||||
- Florence
|
||||
- Museums
|
||||
- Celia
|
||||
- Rome
|
||||
- Tourism's effect on a city
|
||||
- Too much to see in Italy, too little time
|
||||
- Spain
|
||||
- Barcelona
|
||||
- La Sagrada Familia, churches
|
||||
- Madrid
|
||||
- Royalty, revolution
|
||||
- Cordoba
|
||||
- Playing things close
|
||||
- Granada
|
||||
- Flamenco
|
||||
- Peace
|
||||
- Lisbon
|
||||
- Hostels
|
||||
- A city where people still live
|
||||
- Escher (Granada/Cordoba)
|
||||
- The Second Leg
|
||||
- Munich
|
||||
- No more pictures, no more tourism
|
||||
- Diet
|
||||
- Belgium
|
||||
- Brussels
|
||||
- Communism and french fries
|
||||
- Comic book museum
|
||||
- Drawing
|
||||
- Bruges
|
||||
- Beer
|
||||
- A fucking expensive fairytale
|
||||
- So cold, so scarfed
|
||||
- Camina Del Santiago
|
||||
- UK
|
||||
- London
|
||||
- Cost of museums, theft of culture
|
||||
- Dublin
|
||||
- Housing problems
|
||||
- Glendalough
|
||||
- Edinburgh
|
||||
- Reading/Writing
|
||||
- Harry Fucking Potter
|
||||
- Amsterdam
|
||||
- Pub crawl (partying vs ...)
|
||||
- Van Gogh
|
||||
- Weed
|
||||
- Sex (museum)
|
||||
- Copenhagen
|
||||
- Freedom (Christiania)
|
||||
- So many chairs
|
||||
- Stockholm
|
||||
- Tradition
|
||||
- Berlin
|
||||
- History
|
||||
- Movie
|
||||
- Prague
|
||||
- Wandering
|
||||
- Planning
|
||||
- The Third Leg
|
||||
- Munich
|
||||
- Alps, Olympics
|
||||
- Passport
|
||||
- Venice
|
||||
- Beauty in spite of tourism
|
||||
- Rijeka
|
||||
- Hitchikers
|
||||
- A strange beauty
|
||||
- Vienna
|
||||
- Riches and empire
|
||||
- A day at the palace
|
||||
- The Couchsurfing Cult
|
||||
- Athens
|
||||
- Culture
|
||||
- History
|
||||
|
||||
## Denver
|
||||
|
||||
In mid-2015 (???) I moved to Denver, CO while continuing to work remotely at the
|
||||
company I had helped to found back in Gainesville, FL. Florida had been my home
|
||||
for my entire life up until that point, and it felt like a change was needed.
|
||||
Denver was certainly a change, and ultimately I think it was one in the right
|
||||
direction, but it turned out to not be enough.
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html src="mr-worldwide/denver-2017.jpg" %}
|
||||
|
||||
While in Denver I'd been living in a small studio apartment, which over the
|
||||
course of two years I'd learned to live in. Living large is pretty easy; for
|
||||
some reason we find it more difficult to throw something away than we do to
|
||||
exert the effort to make space for it in our lives. It takes a non-trivial
|
||||
amount of trial-and-error to figure out a smaller lifestyle with fewer things.
|
||||
So minimalism is something I practice, in the literal sense of the word, and
|
||||
often fail at. But I find the challenge to be worth it.
|
||||
|
||||
I'd always separated my work-place with my living-place, mentally. But I
|
||||
eventually realized that just because the two places were physically separate
|
||||
doesn't mean they aren't a part of the same thing. At the most basic level I
|
||||
work in order afford basic necessities, like food and clothing and shelter. I
|
||||
have a dedicated home because it allows me to keep myself fit and healthy most
|
||||
efficiently (by having my own ammenities and routines which work best for me).
|
||||
|
||||
But the more I work, the more I burn out and need to recuperate at home. The
|
||||
more time spent at home, the more things accumulate there and the more upkeep of
|
||||
the home is needed, which in turn requires money which requires work. The one
|
||||
leads to the other, and so they are really part of the same thing. I neither
|
||||
want to work nor spend a lot of time at home, but that's what my life had turned
|
||||
into. It was unbearable, and I had to change it.
|
||||
|
||||
## Mr. Worldwide
|
||||
|
||||
In early 2016 I took a trip to Japan with some friends. It was the first time
|
||||
I'd been out of the US (sans a family trip to Nova Scotia when I was like 9 or
|
||||
something). Going to Japan might as well have been a trip to an alien planet,
|
||||
and yet it was also familiar. I learned that no matter how different our
|
||||
cultures are, the individuals of the world aren't all that different at all. By
|
||||
the end of that trip I felt as at home in Japan as I did in Denver, even more so
|
||||
really because of how much time was able to spend exploring (rather than being
|
||||
couped up working).
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/kyoto-2017.jpg"
|
||||
descr="Kyoto at sunset, 2017" %}
|
||||
|
||||
By the end of 2016 I knew I wanted to travel and see as much as possible, and
|
||||
work as little as possible in the meantime (except on my own ideas, as they came
|
||||
up and I felt like working on them). I began trimming down my life as much as
|
||||
possible, with the aim of only having as many things as would fit into a
|
||||
backpack. It probably seemed to everyone like I was preparing to become a
|
||||
homeless person. And in one way they would have been right, and in another, not.
|
||||
|
||||
My plan wasn't that I would never work again, or never live in a home again.
|
||||
Vagrancy isn't a sustainable way to live. But finding a life which involved
|
||||
neither spending all my energy working and being homeless is surely possible, I
|
||||
knew, though maybe I wouldn't find it in the US. So I saved as much money as
|
||||
possible, so I could have as much runway as I needed to find that life, wherever
|
||||
in the world it might be; and in the meantime, I could see all the things worth
|
||||
seeing.
|
||||
|
||||
Europe seemed like as good a place to start as any.
|
||||
|
||||
## Leaving Denver
|
||||
|
||||
By the end of 2017 I was ready to go. I had saved nearly $20k, had put in my
|
||||
notice to quit my job at the end of the year, and had given notice to my
|
||||
landlord of the same. My friends in Denver saw me off, and my friend Ibrahim
|
||||
gave me a small notebook to take notes in, with some helpful phrases that might
|
||||
aid me in my travels.
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/notebook.jpg"
|
||||
descr="Ibrahim made sure I was covered if I ever found myself in a tight spot"
|
||||
%}
|
||||
|
||||
I drove all my things back to Miami just before Christmas, and enjoyed Christmas
|
||||
and New Year's with them. In mid-January I grabbed my single backpack, said
|
||||
goodbye to my parents, and headed to the airport. It had worked out to be
|
||||
cheaper to fly back to Denver before flying to Europe, so I spent another day
|
||||
there saying hello/goodbye to everyone again, collecting some recommendations of
|
||||
places to go while I was there, and continued on to Munich.
|
||||
|
||||
## The Loadout
|
||||
|
||||
(Wherein I give a summary of what I had with me throughout the trip, with
|
||||
affiliate links sprinkled in, cause money. You can skip this section if you don't
|
||||
really care).
|
||||
|
||||
I'd already had a [40L backpacking bag](zulu) which had done me well enough on a
|
||||
couple trips already, so I decided to try and only use that. Other ~~homeless~~
|
||||
backpackers tend to go a little bigger, but they risk not being able to fit
|
||||
their bags in luggage overhead on planes. I also ended up needing a smaller day
|
||||
bag almost immediately, since being out and about all day necessitates bringing
|
||||
some things with you. The big bag/day bag combo is a classic amongst ~~the
|
||||
homeless~~ backpackers.
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/loadout-packed.jpg"
|
||||
descr="All packed up, one for overhead and the other for under the seat"
|
||||
inline=true
|
||||
%}
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/loadout-unpacked.jpg"
|
||||
descr="Everything unpacked, but still rolled up"
|
||||
inline=true
|
||||
%}
|
||||
|
||||
Most space in the bag is taken by clothes. Which clothes I actually had along
|
||||
changed as the weather changed and I gained and lost things. But my general
|
||||
clothing strategy consisted of a couple key points:
|
||||
|
||||
* All things need to be re-wearable, 2 to 3 days at least. This is more
|
||||
difficult for under layers, but wool is ideal as it's durable, warm, and it
|
||||
quickly-dries (which means the fungi/bacteria, which would otherwise cause
|
||||
smell, quickly-die). Wool socks were easy to find on sale for $5 a pair at the
|
||||
end of winter. Wool undershirts (smart wool or merino) are findable on eBay
|
||||
with some difficulty. [Uniqlo][uniqlo] makes good undershirts to fill in
|
||||
when wool undershirts are too expensive. [ExOfficio][exofficio] is worth the
|
||||
money in the underwear department. A pair of leggings is also super worth it
|
||||
for the cold.
|
||||
|
||||
* For outer layers I went with two pairs of pants, one comfy and one a bit
|
||||
nicer, and a few wool shirts/sweaters. Finding wool outer shirts on eBay is
|
||||
trivially easy. For shoes I went with a pair of flip-flops and a pair of
|
||||
[waterproof boots][timbs] (also from eBay). The boots I chose for being able
|
||||
to be used in basically any occasion where flip-flops wouldn't do (marathons
|
||||
excepted).
|
||||
|
||||
* I really can't stress enough how great wool is. That said, I would have died
|
||||
without [this jacket][jacket], which was well worth the relatively tiny amount
|
||||
of space it took up. Same can be said for my [linen towel][towel], which
|
||||
struck a perfect balance of being a towel and being packable.
|
||||
|
||||
* Other random things which were must-haves: rubber bands (for tying up
|
||||
clothes), sewing kit, external phone battery, tape, super glue, and a small
|
||||
package of baby wipes.
|
||||
|
||||
* I also insisted on bringing a laughingly small and old netbook with me, cause
|
||||
I get cranky if I can't code now and then.
|
||||
|
||||
Even before deciding on doing this trip I had begun purging all my old clothes
|
||||
in favor of a much smaller set of more durable, though perhaps more expensive,
|
||||
ones. So a lot of these clothes carried over from that, and all that I just
|
||||
described is really just my current wardrobe.
|
||||
|
||||
[zulu]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SBLO28/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B015SBLO28&linkId=84ffbb4c20cf4dfcee00485312c1d5c3
|
||||
[uniqlo]: https://www.uniqlo.com/us/en/men/undershirts
|
||||
[exofficio]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M0MN0C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001M0MN0C&linkId=a1a2a1fac9c23c44c0633d0e7170fb98
|
||||
[timbs]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019CVV1AK?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B019CVW406&th=1
|
||||
[jacket]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HAXSLC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B013HAXSLC&linkId=44efbeb32af7cc0f303180ec70da207e
|
||||
[towel]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBC17N4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00WBC17N4&linkId=dec48e5d729a51790abad2286f08fe34
|
||||
|
||||
## (Lack of) Planning
|
||||
|
||||
The trip was deliberately not planned out. I knew I would show up in Munich,
|
||||
because I have a friend who lives there as well as a distant relative. But
|
||||
passed that I figured "show up and look around" would suffice. My motto for the
|
||||
trip would eventually become "plans are just lists of things which won't
|
||||
happen". From start to finish the only things I had figured out at any moment
|
||||
was a general trajectory and my next destination. Rarely was my next place to
|
||||
sleep booked more than a week ahead of time, or my next bus or train ticket
|
||||
bought more than a day before.
|
||||
|
||||
It could not have worked any other way. For a short trip it might be viable to
|
||||
have an itinerary with a list of destinations/sights which will be visited and
|
||||
all the traveling needed in between, but the strictness of an itinerary always
|
||||
adds tension. Rather than spend some pre-allotted time at each sight, adding a
|
||||
feeling of being on a timer no matter where you are, I would rather just meander
|
||||
around and spend as much time as feels right at each place. There's zero chance
|
||||
of seeing all there is to see no matter how much is planned, so might as well
|
||||
see each thing in as much depth and detail as you feel like.
|
||||
|
||||
And looking back, I don't think I _did_ miss all that much. Each city has its
|
||||
notable sights, and you can know by looking around and talking to other people
|
||||
which ones are right for you. Start with those, if there's time do the others,
|
||||
but you won't feel like you've missed anything if you don't get to them.
|
||||
|
||||
Much later in my trip someone would ask me and another backpacker (who'd been
|
||||
traveling even longer than me) if we had advice for him. The other backpacker
|
||||
immediately replied "Just keep your head on a swivel". As in, just look around
|
||||
you, keep your eyes open, you'll see all you want and need to. My grandma gave
|
||||
me similar advice before I left, when I asked her what I should do in Spain (her
|
||||
home country): "Oh, you don'thave to do anything. You see something you like,
|
||||
you go there. You see something else, you go there instead. There is nothing you
|
||||
have to do".
|
||||
|
||||
# Munich, Germany
|
||||
|
||||
I arrived in Munich late at night on January 14th. My friend Caitlin met me at
|
||||
the train station near her house and we walked over to it to drop my stuff off.
|
||||
Jetlag hit me real good at this point, so I only barely remember her taking me
|
||||
to a nearby biergarten to get some food and catch up. The next day we headed
|
||||
down to the center of the city, and she showed me around the sights, like
|
||||
Marienplatz and the Frauenkirche (one of many famous churches in Munich).
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/munich-victory-gate-2018.jpg"
|
||||
descr="Siegestor (Victory Gate), Munich, 2018"
|
||||
%}
|
||||
|
||||
As we walked and ate our way through the day Caitlin told me all of the things
|
||||
that are different in Europe, like how water is never free anywhere, nor are
|
||||
public restrooms; like how many buildings which are still used and lived in are
|
||||
older than our entire country; like how people use cash instead of card, and get
|
||||
irritated if you make them break a large bill, or they just might not do it at
|
||||
all; like how even in a large city like Munich everything can still be closed on
|
||||
a Sunday.
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/munich-moosach-2018.jpg"
|
||||
descr="Moosach neighborhood, Munich, 2018"
|
||||
float="right"
|
||||
%}
|
||||
|
||||
The thing which struck me most about Munich was how quiet it was. The din of
|
||||
traffic is so ingrained into me that I don't even hear it until it's not there.
|
||||
And to not hear it inside of a city was very strange. More than sound, there was
|
||||
a quietness of life. It didn't feel like people were rushed, with too much to do
|
||||
and too little time. People crowded onto the subway, but not with impatience,
|
||||
and people walked home from the train station after work without hurry. It was
|
||||
like the priorities of the whole culture were different in some fundamental way
|
||||
that I could never quite put a finger on.
|
||||
|
||||
Caitlin worked during the week and so I was set free into the City for a few
|
||||
days. I visited more churches, ate more food, hung out at the library figuring
|
||||
out the next steps of my travels, and just generally wandered around the city.
|
||||
|
||||
One snowy day I had lunch with a distant relative on my mom's side, who is an
|
||||
artist in Munich. I met her at her studio, and from there we wandered around
|
||||
various museums where she gave me essentially a private guided tour of the
|
||||
exhibits. We talked about politics, with Trump being the main topic of course.
|
||||
We talked about art, and school, and our different cultures. She told me that
|
||||
Europe had always looked to the US as a kind of older brother, but now that
|
||||
image was starting to fall apart, and I told her about the tiny house and
|
||||
minimalism movement that is hopefully picking up steam in the US. (TODO finish
|
||||
this paragraph).
|
||||
|
||||
A week after arriving it was time for me to continue on. One cold morning I
|
||||
hopped onto a bus, rode through a snowy Switzerland, and hopped off into a
|
||||
bright and sunny Milan.
|
||||
|
||||
## Milan, Italy
|
||||
|
||||
My first impression of Milan was: "Wow, this place is sketchy". The streets were
|
||||
dirty, old, and covered in graffiti. There were homeless everywhere, people
|
||||
selling bootleg clothes in the street, scammers targeting tourists, and a
|
||||
general disheveldness which Munich didn't have. But on the other side of that
|
||||
coin, Milan is one of the fashion capitals of the world, and everywhere I looked
|
||||
there were also beautiful people in expensive looking clothes, driving fancy
|
||||
cars, and eating at fancy cafes. Where Munich was simple and wealthy, Milan was
|
||||
lavish and disparate.
|
||||
|
||||
My hostel in Milan was called the Ostello Bello, and was probably the best one I
|
||||
could have gotten as my first hostel in Europe. The hostel's downstairs area was
|
||||
a restaurant/bar, with tables reserved for hostel guests. Upon arriving they
|
||||
immediately sat me down at one of those tables, where others were sitting, and
|
||||
said "this is Brian, talk to him". They did this with every person who arrived,
|
||||
as well as giving us free food and drinks, so that every night turned into a
|
||||
small party.
|
||||
|
||||
It took a while for me to fully break out of my shell and get used to meeting
|
||||
people in hostels, but if it weren't for Ostello Bello it might not have
|
||||
happened at all. Every night I got to hand out and make friends with people from
|
||||
South Korea, Scotland, Argentina, France, Switzerland, and locals from Milan
|
||||
too. So despite all the negative things I'm going to have to say about party
|
||||
hostels later, I'm grateful for Ostello Bello.
|
||||
|
||||
As far as Milan itself, the only thing which really impacted me was the Duomo.
|
||||
And boy did it impact me, so much so that I visited it twice. It's the third
|
||||
largest church in the world, but my experience of it was even better than when I
|
||||
went to St. Peter's, the first largest. The interior is so cavernous that all
|
||||
sounds echo virtually forever, creating a low hum which reminded me of the Hindu
|
||||
Om. To think that the words of a book carried such force that, 2000 years later,
|
||||
people were erecting and maintaining incredible structures like the Milan's
|
||||
Duomo in their honor floored me. There's a lot of criticism which could and
|
||||
should be leveled towards the Catholic Church, but damnit they know how to build
|
||||
a building.
|
||||
|
||||
Besides the Duomo I also visited some museums and other sights, like the Sforza
|
||||
Castle, walking from one to the other as the days went on. Walking became a
|
||||
frequent past-time for me during my traveling. Between Google Maps and an
|
||||
external batter pack I always had with me there was never a worry about getting
|
||||
lost, and with hostels generally being clustered near the sights it was rarely
|
||||
more than a half-hour walk to any given thing I wanted to see. So I got used to
|
||||
walking a lot, and taking public transit infrequently, and never once used a
|
||||
taxi or rental car while in Europe.
|
||||
|
||||
Five days after arriving in Milan I left it, having made many friends and
|
||||
having learned a lot about Italy and Italians. I also learned I was spending too
|
||||
long at each city: It was almost 2 weeks into my 3 month-max trip (for visa
|
||||
reasons), and I'd only been to two! From then on I kept to two or three days per
|
||||
city, depending on how much I cared about it, with a couple of five day-ers when
|
||||
I really needed a rest.
|
||||
|
||||
## Ravenna, Italy
|
||||
|
||||
After the hecticness of Milan I needed something more quiet. Before leaving the
|
||||
US a friend had told me about Ravenna, the once capital of the Western Roman
|
||||
Empire and now small Italian city, where some of the world's oldest Christian
|
||||
structures still reside. Mosaics retain their original quality over time far
|
||||
better than many other mediums, and Ravenna was full of ones from as early as
|
||||
the 6th century. While not as glamorous and fast-paced as Milan, Ravenna really
|
||||
hit me with the depth of its history. As someone from the US I'm not accustomed
|
||||
to seeing anything built before 1500, and yet here were buildings in excellent
|
||||
condition which were built a thousand years prior.
|
||||
|
||||
Another thing which took some time to get accustomed to was using cash. By this
|
||||
point in the trip it had become somewhat second-nature, but only by way of many
|
||||
mishaps previously. In the US using cash is usually a backup option, with
|
||||
credit/debit cards ruling supreme. ATMs never give out bills bigger than $20,
|
||||
and no establishment would ever complain about having to break a $20 except for
|
||||
maybe the smallest purchases. In Europe the ATMs (or cash machines, whatever)
|
||||
almost always give out €50 bills, which absolutely no one wants to break except
|
||||
big chain stores. I still remember the exact location of an ATM in Munich which
|
||||
gave me €10 bills, it was that exciting of a find, and I went out of my way to
|
||||
go back to it more than once.
|
||||
|
||||
So in addition to needing to keep an eye on your cash and get more out
|
||||
periodically, you also need to keep an eye out for places which will break your
|
||||
bills and plan accordingly. Before leaving the US I had gotten a debit card with
|
||||
free international ATM withdrawls at any ATM, so finding places to get cash out
|
||||
wasn't a problem, but breaking it always was.
|
||||
|
||||
By the time I got back to the US, I missed doing everything in cash, and even
|
||||
kept doing it for a while in spite of my culture. While having to find places to
|
||||
break fifties was a pain, a little friction to making random purchases wasn't
|
||||
necessarily a bad thing. Instead of impulsively buying whatever was in front of
|
||||
me, I was incentivized to wait until a better opportunity arrose, generally by
|
||||
waiting until I could buy multiple things at the same time, which generally
|
||||
meant buying more efficiently because I was actually putting thought into it.
|
||||
Also, by always paying in cash, I had a better sense of how much I was actually
|
||||
spending day-to-day. In the US we abhor inconvenience, but in my opinion our
|
||||
reluctance to use cash is a good example of how that abhorance can be to our own
|
||||
detriment.
|
||||
|
||||
## Florence, Italy
|
||||
|
||||
The train from Ravenna to Florence (or, as Italians spell it, _Firenze_) was
|
||||
uneventful. Finding the best route between cities turned out to be pretty
|
||||
straightforward. There's an app called GoEuro which helps compare different
|
||||
methods like bus, train, plane, and taxi/ride-sharing. There's another app
|
||||
called Rome2Trio which does roughly the same thing. There's a bus company called
|
||||
FlexBus which I used quite a bit; their prices are good, their buses are new,
|
||||
and the UI of their site was made in the last decade.
|
||||
|
||||
Florence was by far my favorite city in Italy. On the one hand it was very
|
||||
trourist-friendly, and on the other it still retained the feeling of being a
|
||||
historic city. I split my time there between visiting museums and churches and
|
||||
finding the best cheapest spots to eat. Before leaving the US a friend had told
|
||||
me to avoid any restaurant in Europe that has pictures on its menu; they're
|
||||
targeted at tourists and priced accordingly. My strategy for finding food
|
||||
involved marking off hole-in-the-wall spots in my maps app whenever I came
|
||||
across them during the day.
|
||||
|
||||
On my second day in Florence I was sitting by the Uffizi, eating a panini, and I
|
||||
randomly met an art history student from Madrid who was also visiting Florence.
|
||||
Together we went to a bunch of museums, saw the David, and just generally hung
|
||||
out. I asked her a lot of questions at the museums, because, to be honest, I'd
|
||||
never understood what to make of art in museums.
|
||||
|
||||
I'd already learned that, even if I could see a picture of something online,
|
||||
seeing it in person is way different. In person the colors in a painting pop out
|
||||
more (many even have gold leef paint which doesn't really show up in pictures at
|
||||
all, but makes a world of difference), there's a lot more detail to be seen, and
|
||||
the size of some is absolutely baffling. I also enjoy learning about history,
|
||||
and the history of art is effectively the history of the world. So museums had
|
||||
become a meditative place for me; I could go to one and just wander, taking in
|
||||
art pieces at whatever rate I liked, learning and thinking about history as I
|
||||
went.
|
||||
|
||||
What had always confused me, though, was how to _judge_ art. As in, what makes
|
||||
one piece better than another, or what makes one artist better than another? Why
|
||||
do some paintings become famous and others remain obscure? What my friend from
|
||||
Madrid told me is that there's not really a metric. Some paintings become famous
|
||||
for historical reasons, either due to where they were originally displayed or
|
||||
some story associated with them. Same for some artists. Ultimately it's up to
|
||||
the individual to judge them. There was a painting in the same room as the
|
||||
famous Birth of Venus painting which I liked far more, and was happy to admire
|
||||
it alone as throngs of other tourists vied for good selfies with the more famous
|
||||
piece.
|
||||
|
||||
I left Florence with a greater appreciation and understanding of museums, as
|
||||
well as a good friend who I would be able to visit later while making my way
|
||||
through Spain.
|
||||
|
||||
## Rome, Italy
|
||||
|
||||
Rome surprised me when I got there, though to be honest it's not clear what my
|
||||
expectations actually were. The city center, aka the tourist center, is
|
||||
absolutely _massive_, and all of it is completely tourist-centric. Living in
|
||||
Rome must feel like living inside of Disney World. The city no longer exists for
|
||||
its residents, but instead has been completely swallowed by the tourism
|
||||
industry. Every street corner and storefront is filled with souvenir shops,
|
||||
overpriced food, clothing stores with "I <3 Rome" shirts, gelato shops, walking
|
||||
tour agencies, bike rentals, "experience" vendors (helicopter rides over the
|
||||
Colosseum! Oh my!), shitty jewelry stores, and so much more, all aimed at
|
||||
someone who has too much money and not enough time to spend it all.
|
||||
|
||||
My hostel was one of the cheapest I could find, but since I was only staying
|
||||
two full days I figured it'd be fine. Seeing all the sights of Rome in only two
|
||||
days is not recommended, but I did the best I could. The first day I went
|
||||
straight to the Vatican, getting there as early as possible to try
|
||||
(unsuccessfully) to beat the line. St. Peters is the largest church in the
|
||||
world, but being rushed I wasn't able to enjoy it like Milan's Duomo, and a lot
|
||||
of it was closed off unless you wanted to pay more. I wasn't able to spend
|
||||
enough time in it to enjoy it.
|
||||
|
||||
The Vatican museum was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. For starters
|
||||
it's huge, with tons and tons of things to see, including, obviously, the
|
||||
Sistene Chapel. I took my time wandering around. After the museum I left the
|
||||
Vatican and wandered over to some other sights, like the Castel Sant'Angelo and
|
||||
the Pantheon. As the day wore on, and more and more tourists started pouring
|
||||
out, everything became impossibly crowded. It was difficult to really enjoy
|
||||
anything, what with everyone taking their phones out to capture anything and
|
||||
everything the guidebook said to, without really taking the time to take in the
|
||||
thing itself.
|
||||
|
||||
This was something I began to struggle with while I was in Rome. It wasn't
|
||||
always clear to me _why_ these people cared about these sights, with myself
|
||||
being included. My pessimistic self would say that people just want the social
|
||||
media points gained by a nice selfie in front of Trevi Fountain, and that the
|
||||
tourism explosion which has started in the last decade is driven by narcissism.
|
||||
My charitable self might say that everyone understands that the journey matters
|
||||
more than the destination, and that seeing the sights isn't really the point,
|
||||
but rather prefer the adventure taken with friends and/or family, and so they
|
||||
snap a quick picture and continue on with their good time.
|
||||
|
||||
The reason people travel and visit tourist spots is really only their business,
|
||||
and I can't be one to judge. It just seems unfortunate to take an entire city,
|
||||
arguably the most important city in written history, and turn it into a theme
|
||||
park for the sake of people who don't actually care all too much about it. I
|
||||
carried this realization with me for the rest of my trip, that tourism is a
|
||||
deal-with-the-devil, taking the money of people who, ostensibly, find some place
|
||||
interesting, in exchange for driving away the original inhabitants of that place
|
||||
who made it interesting in the first place.
|
||||
|
||||
Later on I would learn that the creep of tourism and the dreaded plague of
|
||||
"gentrification" were spoken of as the same thing in popular destinations. The
|
||||
problem of wealthy people driving out the inhabitants of a city in order to take
|
||||
part in the city culture the original inhabitants created is a global one, and
|
||||
one I'm certainly a part of. I moved to Denver because I liked the culture of
|
||||
that city, and was fortunate enough to be able to afford to do so, but then left
|
||||
only three years later, and was now doing the same in even shorter time periods
|
||||
in cities the world over.
|
||||
|
||||
I obviously didn't stop being a tourist after Rome, but I made a conscious
|
||||
attempt to be a better one. I put down the guidebook (or, in my case, the guide
|
||||
app) and tried to explore more naturally, taking in each sight as I found it,
|
||||
and learning as much about it as I could. Rather than trying to see a little of
|
||||
everything I find something which really called out to me and focus on that.
|
||||
It's a tough predicament to be in; it's important to go out and see the world,
|
||||
to meet people from all different cultures and see all the ways they live, but
|
||||
doing so is, often, detrimental to those cultures. It was tough to find a
|
||||
balance I was comfortable with, and I'm still not sure a "correct" balance
|
||||
actually exists.
|
||||
|
||||
My second day in Rome I spent at the Colosseum and the Palatino, but I was so
|
||||
utterly exhausted and brain-melted I barely remember them. I left Rome
|
||||
with a ton of things left unseen, but without any regret about it. Italy itself
|
||||
had far too much for me to do in this trip, and I knew I'd be back one day, both
|
||||
to Italy and to Rome itself. On the third day I hopped on a plane, flew across
|
||||
the sea, and landed in Spain.
|
21
_includes/image.html
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
|
||||
<div style="
|
||||
box-sizing: border-box;
|
||||
text-align: center;
|
||||
padding-left: 2em;
|
||||
padding-right: 2em;
|
||||
margin-bottom: 1em;
|
||||
{%- if include.float %}
|
||||
float: {{ include.float }};
|
||||
{% endif -%}
|
||||
{%- if include.float or include.inline %}
|
||||
max-width: 49%;
|
||||
{% endif -%}
|
||||
{%- if include.inline %}
|
||||
display: inline-block;
|
||||
{% endif -%}
|
||||
">
|
||||
<a href="/img/{{ include.src }}" target="_blank">
|
||||
<img style="max-height: 60vh;"
|
||||
src="/img/{{ include.src }}" alt="{{ include.descr }}" /></a>
|
||||
{%- if include.descr %}<br/><em>{{ include.descr }}</em>{%- endif %}
|
||||
</div>
|
201
_posts/2018-09-20-mr-worldwide-pt-0.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,201 @@
|
||||
---
|
||||
title: >-
|
||||
Mr. Worldwide, Pt. 0: Bailtrain to Bailtown
|
||||
description: >-
|
||||
Wherein I quit my job and prepare to leave the country
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
## Denver
|
||||
|
||||
In mid-2015 I moved to Denver, CO while continuing to work remotely at the
|
||||
company I had helped to found back in Gainesville, FL. Florida had been my home
|
||||
for my entire life, up until that point, and it felt like a change was needed.
|
||||
Denver was certainly a change, and ultimately I think it was one in the right
|
||||
direction, but it turned out to not be enough.
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html src="mr-worldwide/denver-2017.jpg" %}
|
||||
|
||||
While in Denver I'd rented a tiny studio apartment, which over the
|
||||
course of two years I'd learned to live in. Living large is pretty easy; for
|
||||
some reason we (generally) find it more difficult to throw something away than
|
||||
to exert the effort to make space for it in our lives. It takes a non-trivial
|
||||
amount of trial-and-error to figure out a smaller lifestyle with fewer things.
|
||||
So minimalism is something I started to practice, and continue to practice, in
|
||||
the literal sense of the word, often failing at it. But I find the challenge to
|
||||
be worth it.
|
||||
|
||||
I'd always separated my work-place from my living-place, mentally. Eventually I
|
||||
realized that just because the two places were physically separate doesn't mean
|
||||
they aren't a part of the same thing. At the most basic level I work in order to
|
||||
afford basic necessities, like food and clothing and shelter. I have a dedicated
|
||||
home because it's the most efficient way to keep myself fit and healthy and
|
||||
clean, because it allows me to having my own ammenities and routines which work
|
||||
best for me.
|
||||
|
||||
But the more I work, the more I burn out and need to recuperate at home. The
|
||||
more time spent at home, the more things accumulate there and the more upkeep of
|
||||
the home is needed, which in turn requires money which requires work. The one
|
||||
leads to the other, and so they are really part of the same thing. I neither
|
||||
want to work nor spend a lot of time at home, but that's what my life had turned
|
||||
into. It was unbearable, and I had to change it.
|
||||
|
||||
## Mr. Worldwide
|
||||
|
||||
In early 2016 I took a trip to Japan with some friends. It was the first time
|
||||
I'd been out of the US (sans a family trip to Nova Scotia when I was like 9 or
|
||||
something). Going to Japan might as well have been a trip to an alien planet,
|
||||
and yet it was also familiar. I learned that no matter how different our
|
||||
cultures are, the individuals of the world aren't that different at all. By the
|
||||
end of that trip I felt as at-home in Japan as I did in Denver, if not more so,
|
||||
because of how much time I was able to spend exploring (rather than being couped
|
||||
up working).
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/kyoto-2017.jpg"
|
||||
descr="Kyoto at sunset, 2017" %}
|
||||
|
||||
By the end of 2016 I knew I wanted to travel and see as much as possible, while
|
||||
working as little as possible in the meantime (except on my own ideas, as they
|
||||
came up and I felt like working on them). I began trimming down my life, with
|
||||
the aim of only having as many things as would fit into a backpack. It probably
|
||||
seemed to everyone like I was preparing to become a homeless person. In a way I
|
||||
kind of was.
|
||||
|
||||
My plan wasn't that I would never work again, or never live in a home again.
|
||||
Vagrancy isn't a sustainable way for me to live. But finding a life which didn't
|
||||
involve spending all my energy working while also not being homeless is surely
|
||||
possible, I knew, though maybe I wouldn't find it in the US. I began saving as
|
||||
much money as possible, and began thinking about where I might find that life.
|
||||
|
||||
Europe seemed as good a place to start the search as any.
|
||||
|
||||
## Leaving Denver
|
||||
|
||||
By the end of 2017 I was ready to go. I had saved nearly $20k, had put in notice
|
||||
that I'd be leaving my job at the end of the year, and had given notice to my
|
||||
landlord of the same. My friends in Denver saw me off, and my friend Ibrahim
|
||||
gave me a small notebook to take notes in as I traveled, with some helpful
|
||||
phrases that might aid me along the way
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/notebook.jpg"
|
||||
descr="Ibrahim made sure I was covered if I ever found myself in a tight spot"
|
||||
%}
|
||||
|
||||
I drove all my things back to my parents' house in Miami just before Christmas,
|
||||
and enjoyed Christmas and New Year's with them. In mid-January I grabbed my
|
||||
single backpack, said goodbye to my parents, and headed to the airport. It had
|
||||
worked out to be cheaper to fly back to Denver before flying to Europe, so I
|
||||
spent another day there saying hello/goodbye to everyone again, collecting some
|
||||
recommendations of places to go while I was there, and continued on to Europe.
|
||||
|
||||
## The Loadout
|
||||
|
||||
(Wherein I give a summary of what I had with me throughout the trip, with
|
||||
affiliate links sprinkled in, cause money. You can skip this section if you
|
||||
don't really care).
|
||||
|
||||
I'd already had a [40L backpacking bag](zulu) which had done me well enough on a
|
||||
couple trips already, so I decided to try and only use that. Other ~~homeless~~
|
||||
backpackers tend to go a little bigger, but they risk not being able to fit
|
||||
their bags in luggage overhead on planes. I also ended up needing a smaller day
|
||||
bag almost immediately, since being out and about all day necessitates bringing
|
||||
some things with you. The big bag/day bag combo is a classic amongst ~~the
|
||||
homeless~~ backpackers.
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/loadout-packed.jpg"
|
||||
descr="All packed up, one for overhead and the other for under the seat"
|
||||
inline=true
|
||||
%}
|
||||
|
||||
{% include image.html
|
||||
src="mr-worldwide/loadout-unpacked.jpg"
|
||||
descr="(Almost) everything, unpacked"
|
||||
inline=true
|
||||
%}
|
||||
|
||||
Most space in the bag is taken by clothes. Which clothes I actually had along
|
||||
changed as the weather changed and I gained and lost things. But my general
|
||||
clothing strategy consisted of a few key points:
|
||||
|
||||
* All things need to be re-wearable, 2 to 3 days at least. This is more
|
||||
difficult for under layers, but wool is ideal as it's durable, warm, and it
|
||||
quickly-dries (which means the fungi/bacteria, which would otherwise cause
|
||||
smell, quickly-die). Wool socks were easy to find on sale for $5 a pair at the
|
||||
end of winter. Wool undershirts (smart wool or merino) are findable on eBay
|
||||
with some difficulty. [Uniqlo][uniqlo] makes good undershirts to fill in
|
||||
when wool undershirts are too expensive. [ExOfficio][exofficio] is worth the
|
||||
money in the underwear department. A pair of leggings is also super worth it
|
||||
for the cold.
|
||||
|
||||
* For pants I went with three pairs; one beat-up pair, one casual, and one a bit
|
||||
nicer, and a few wool shirts/sweaters. Later in the trip, as summer rolled
|
||||
around, I'd pick up some shorts as well. My couple of wool shirts/sweaters
|
||||
were trivial to find on eBay.
|
||||
|
||||
* For shoes I went with a pair of flip-flops and a pair of [waterproof
|
||||
boots][timbs] (also from eBay). The boots I chose for being able to be used in
|
||||
basically any occasion where flip-flops wouldn't do (marathons excepted).
|
||||
|
||||
* I really can't stress enough how great wool is. That said, I would have died
|
||||
without [this jacket][jacket], which was well worth the relatively tiny amount
|
||||
of space it took up. Same can be said for my [linen towel][towel], which
|
||||
struck a perfect balance between packability and being a towel.
|
||||
|
||||
* Other random things which were must-haves: rubber bands (for tying up
|
||||
clothes), sewing kit, external phone battery, tape, super glue, umbrella, and
|
||||
a small package of baby wipes.
|
||||
|
||||
* I also insisted on bringing a laughably small and old netbook with me, cause
|
||||
I get cranky if I can't code now and then.
|
||||
|
||||
Even before deciding on doing this trip I had begun purging all my old clothes
|
||||
in favor of a much smaller set of more durable, though perhaps more expensive,
|
||||
ones. So a lot of these clothes carried over from that, and all that I just
|
||||
described is really my current wardrobe.
|
||||
|
||||
[zulu]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SBLO28/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B015SBLO28&linkId=84ffbb4c20cf4dfcee00485312c1d5c3
|
||||
[uniqlo]: https://www.uniqlo.com/us/en/men/undershirts
|
||||
[exofficio]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M0MN0C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001M0MN0C&linkId=a1a2a1fac9c23c44c0633d0e7170fb98
|
||||
[timbs]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019CVV1AK?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B019CVW406&th=1
|
||||
[jacket]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HAXSLC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B013HAXSLC&linkId=44efbeb32af7cc0f303180ec70da207e
|
||||
[towel]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBC17N4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00WBC17N4&linkId=dec48e5d729a51790abad2286f08fe34
|
||||
|
||||
## (Lack of) Planning
|
||||
|
||||
The trip was deliberately not planned out. I knew I would show up in Munich,
|
||||
because I have a friend who lives there as well as a distant relative. But
|
||||
passed that I figured "show up and look around" would suffice. My motto for the
|
||||
trip would eventually become "plans are just lists of things which won't
|
||||
happen". From start to finish the only plans I had figured out at any moment
|
||||
was a general trajectory and my next destination. Rarely was my next place to
|
||||
sleep booked more than a week ahead of time, or my next bus or train ticket
|
||||
bought more than a day before.
|
||||
|
||||
It could not have worked any other way. For a short trip it might be viable to
|
||||
have an itinerary with a list of destinations/sights which will be visited and
|
||||
all the traveling needed in between, but the strictness of an itinerary always
|
||||
adds tension. Rather than spend some pre-allotted time at each sight, adding a
|
||||
feeling of being on a timer no matter where you are, I would rather just meander
|
||||
around and spend as much time as feels right at each place. There's zero chance
|
||||
of seeing all there is to see, no matter how much is planned, so might as well
|
||||
see each thing in as much depth and detail as you feel like.
|
||||
|
||||
And looking back, I don't think I _did_ miss all that much. Each city has its
|
||||
notable sights, and you can know by looking around and talking to other people
|
||||
which ones are right for you. Start with those, if there's time do the others,
|
||||
but you won't feel like you've missed anything if you don't get to them.
|
||||
|
||||
Much later in my trip someone would ask me and another backpacker (who'd been
|
||||
traveling even longer than me) if we had advice for him. The other backpacker
|
||||
immediately replied "Just keep your head on a swivel". As in, just look around
|
||||
you, keep your eyes open, you'll see all you want and need to. My grandma gave
|
||||
me similar advice before I left, when I asked her what I should do in Spain (her
|
||||
home country): "Oh, you don'thave to do anything. You see something you like,
|
||||
you go there. You see something else, you go there instead. There is nothing you
|
||||
have to do".
|
||||
|
||||
## Bailing
|
||||
|
||||
In the next post I will actually leave and begin my _adventure_. Stay tuned!
|
BIN
img/mr-worldwide/denver-2017.jpg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 309 KiB |
BIN
img/mr-worldwide/kyoto-2017.jpg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 1.4 MiB |
BIN
img/mr-worldwide/loadout-packed.jpg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 2.0 MiB |
BIN
img/mr-worldwide/loadout-unpacked.jpg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 3.4 MiB |
BIN
img/mr-worldwide/munich-moosach-2018.jpg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 5.4 MiB |
BIN
img/mr-worldwide/munich-victory-gate-2018.jpg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 3.3 MiB |
BIN
img/mr-worldwide/notebook.jpg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 1.4 MiB |
79
new-post.sh
Executable file
@ -0,0 +1,79 @@
|
||||
#!/bin/sh
|
||||
|
||||
set -e
|
||||
|
||||
numargs=2
|
||||
function usage {
|
||||
echo "Usage: $0 [options] <post title> <post description>
|
||||
Options:
|
||||
-i Create image directory
|
||||
-d \"YYYY-MM-DD\" Custom date to use instead of today
|
||||
-V Verbose
|
||||
-x Dry run, don't make any changes
|
||||
"
|
||||
exit 1
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
td=$(date "+%Y-%m-%d")
|
||||
|
||||
while [ "$(echo $1 | head -c1)" = '-' -o "$#" -gt $numargs ]; do
|
||||
arg="$1"
|
||||
shift
|
||||
|
||||
case "$arg" in
|
||||
"-i") IMG_DIR=1;;
|
||||
"-d") td=$1; shift;;
|
||||
"-V") VERBOSE=1;;
|
||||
"-x") DRY_RUN=1;;
|
||||
*)
|
||||
echo "Unknown option '$arg'"
|
||||
usage;;
|
||||
esac
|
||||
done
|
||||
|
||||
if [ "$#" != $numargs ]; then usage; fi
|
||||
|
||||
if [ ! -z $VERBOSE ]; then set -x; fi
|
||||
|
||||
title="$1"
|
||||
clean_title=$(echo "$title" |\
|
||||
tr '[:upper:]' '[:lower:]' |\
|
||||
sed 's/[^a-z0-9 ]//g' |\
|
||||
tr ' ' '-' \
|
||||
)
|
||||
|
||||
description="$2"
|
||||
if $(echo "$description" | grep -q '[^.$!]$'); then
|
||||
echo 'Description needs to be a complete sentence, with ending punctuation.'
|
||||
exit 1
|
||||
fi
|
||||
|
||||
postFileName=_posts/$td-$clean_title.md
|
||||
echo "Creating $postFileName"
|
||||
postContent=$(cat <<EOF
|
||||
---
|
||||
title: >-
|
||||
$title
|
||||
description: >-
|
||||
$description
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Write stuff here, title will automatically be added as an h1
|
||||
|
||||
## Secondary header
|
||||
|
||||
Title is already h1 so all sub-titles should be h2 or below.
|
||||
EOF
|
||||
)
|
||||
|
||||
if [ -z $DRY_RUN ]; then
|
||||
echo "$postContent" > "$postFileName"
|
||||
fi
|
||||
|
||||
if [ ! -z $IMG_DIR ]; then
|
||||
imgDirName="img/$clean_title"
|
||||
echo "Creating directory $imgDirName"
|
||||
if [ -z $DRY_RUN ]; then
|
||||
mkdir -p "$imgDirName"
|
||||
fi
|
||||
fi
|